Here is a little of the fun we have been having in January - starring 3 of our dogs, Molly, Tilly and Fly
The course shown in the video is here
We have been working on wing wraps all month so after a deceptively easy start it gets a bit twisty
As ever there are many ways to run this - one change that flowed very nicely was a front cross after 16 to avoid the off course jump, turning the dog right over 17 which gave a nice flow into 18
If you do run this feel free to share
If you are interested in training your agility dog I totally recommend the control unleashed book, click the image below to check it out on Amazon
OK so Im a big kid, I know that
Here are a couple of agility courses that I made for Halloween in the shape of devil horns
As ever space everything out to suit yourself, closer or further away makes for different challanges
Course 1
The main challenges here were actually that the A frame was still up between the horns so running 7 to 8 this often drove the dogs to the A frame and it ran better if you layered that section staying behind 5.
This also gave options for 8 to 9 depending on how fast the dogs/handler is, a front/blind cross on landing of 8 gave a nice line for 9 10 11 but not everyone could get there in time so you needed a good drive on to 10 while reading a rear cross so the dog could be turning to 11 without the handler needing to get past 9 was the best
12 13 14 needed the handler to remain fairly still to not push the dog out to the off course 9
Here are Fly and Tilly having a go at this
Course 2
Lots of options if you wanted to front cross, blind cross or rear cross, or a mixture of them all
Hope you have fun on these devilish courses! If you try them please send a video, I would love to see them
Here is this last weeks course at old mill
It was based on several smaller courses from the Clear Run agility sourcebook. The contact equipment was on the field anyway but made a really great distraction training for some of the dogs
This was firstly done in 3 sections. 1-7, 8-14 and 15 to 21. 8-14 is the most difficult section and then running the full course 7, 8, 9 and 10 become even more tricky
Several ways to run this one of course based on dog and handler.
1-6 on the right hand with a flick into 7
Most people pulled through from 7 to 8 staying on the takeoff side of 8 with the dog on the left hand (although racing to exit of 7 and pushing over 8 staying on the landing side keeping dog on right hand 8 - 9 also worked well)
Front or rear cross between 8 and 9, push to backside of 10 then front cross to 11
360 post turn or ass pass on 11 to weaves on left hand
Flick dog to 14 staying on takeoff side of 13
Front or blind cross to 15 then front cross or flick to tunnel
Right hand to end
One of the main challenges on this course is simply remembering it, its actually easier to remember courses if there are more jumps so you are not using the same jump again and again
Here is the lovely Fly, a novice dog having a go at the course
Sunday at the stables we did this nice fast course
A nice one for speed and confidence, you can pretty much do to 12 on your left hand, front cross the landing of 12 and do the rest on your right hand
I have included a video of the lovely Molly running this course. Molly hasnt competed yet but she is a little superstar. Yes she skipped one weave pole :)
I didnt run this one as myself and Ben were just back from a show and we were both pretty worn out (but the little superstar got another first place)
I hope if you run this you enjoy it, and feel free to share any videos of you running it
Adjust the spacing as you need as wider or closer spacings each have their own challenges
Another long thin course.
The section 5 to 9 was based on part of a course I ran at a show at the weekend and really loved so wanted to inflict it on my pupils
So many ways to handle this bit.
Personally what I chose to do was
5 to 6 dog on left h and.
Post turn over 6 turning dog right keeping them on the left hand
Over 7 turn dog right and front cross
Over 8 turn dog left and front cross
Dog on left hand over 9
But of course there are many different ways to run this
If you do run it and film it please pass on the video :)
This one is a good way for beginners to practise slaloms and treadles and a fun way to try some of the octagon courses that were all the rage a couple of years ago in smaller spaces
And here is how it looks in our long skinny yard
If anyone films themselves trying this (or any other of our courses) please send me the link and I will stick it up here
Over the years some amazing people have been kind enough to share their agility courses and handling ideas and these things have really helped me.
So I thought I would share some of my agility courses to pay back all the help I have had.
My yard at Old Mill Dogs is long and thin which is quite a challenging space to think of courses.
This is last weeks Intermediate class course. The main handling challenge we were trying to work on here was sending away to the back of a turned away tunnel (I am sure there is a fancy word for that)
So at the start of the class we worked on Jump 6 to the tunnel
First with a stay at 6 we stood right at the tunnel entrance and recalled the dog over the jump and post turned them into the tunnel.
Then repeated several times taking steps closer to jump 6 and sending the dog further and further into the tunnel until we were able to send the dog over jump 6 and stay at the takeoff side of 6 and send into the tunnel.
Repeat for 18 to 19.
Then on to running the course. 1 - 6 fairly straightforward, running with the dog on the right then send to the tunnel. There are several ways to handle 8, 9, 10. A cross between the tunnel exit and 8 tended to show the dog the line to off course jump 3. A blind or front cross worked well between 8 and 9 or a front cross after 9. A flick on the right hand over 10 worked with dogs who could read that well.
11 to 13 with dogs who could drive out to the tunnel a good way to handle was 11 on left hand then send over 12 and to tunnel while rear crossing and passing 12 on the left hand side. For dogs with a less confident tunnel a blind cross before 12 worked nicely.
Then it was a race getting to 14, being out to the left of 12 gave a nice diagonal spring to 14 which pushed the dog out over 14. 14, 15, 16 on right hand. Front cross 16 and push the dog over 17 to 18 - if you are slightly infront then the dog dosent even notice the off course tunnel. Send to 19 then finish over 20 - simples :)
I hope you have fun running this one, if you do get the chance to film it I would love to see it. (note my spacings are not exact, adapt it to suit your space)
I wont lie - I am totally rubbish at knowing my left from my right so I have never actually taught my dogs 'left' and 'right' on an agility course
But I have found this a useful trick for many reasons. Firstly it teaches you and your dog about luring and phasing out the lure (I teach this trick to a new dog just after I have started teaching them 'sit') It is good for warming up muscles and getting focus. It can be great fun for the dog so great for cheering them up when they are a bit down or unmotivated and it gets dogs comfy with turning away from you and you crossing behind them as a starter to flicks and rear crosses
I usually start with the dog infront of me and a treat in my right hand. I lure the dogs nose clockwise and reward for the nose moving, then reward for 1 step to the right, 2 steps, 4 steps and then a little jackpot for them getting all the way around. (sometimes bigger/less flexable dogs need a bit more space so I lure and take a step back.
Once they have done a couple of full circles with a lure in my hand I then remove the treat from my hand and lure with an empty hand and reward from my other hand
Slowly over time move the lure hand higher and higher and make your circles smaller until you are just pointing in the direction you want them to go.
Add the cue word ('right') when you know they will take the full circle and say it as they are circling, I dont try saying the word before the action until they can do it with just the finger point then I would say 'right' wait a sec then point - if the dog does it before the hand signal then they get a jackpot
Remember and work on the other side (left) as well
The text didnt come out too well on the video here!!
This week you want to teach your dog to circle and object. If they are on your right they will be circling anti-clockwise, on your left they will circle clockwise
This trick has several uses
It can help with tight turns in agility
It helps a dog feel confident moving out away from you
It helps us learn about luring (although of course you can shape this too)
Start somewhere with low distractions and pick an object that your dog can easily see and get round
Lure your dog round the object and reward with something high value
Each time reduce the amount your hands move to lure the dog and you can ask for more than one turn (you can see my dogs 'stick' after one turn because I dont often ask for more than one turn)
Once your dogs really know what you want you can begin to move away from the object and send them further and further out each time.
Once they are happy and confident that your dog knows this trick you can take it to lots of different locations. I send my dogs around trees, football posts, lamp posts - anything
And here is the text that will be in the local papers
Club barking with joy after Glasgow Airport’s donation
A local dog agility club has received a cash injection of £2,500 from Glasgow Airport’s FlightPath Fund.
Phoenix Flyers Dog Agility Club, which was set up last year by airport security guard, Tony Gallacher, will use the funding to purchase the agility equipment needed to train the dogs.
Dog agility is a sport where a handler guides a dog over a course of jumps, tunnels, weaves and contact equipment. The airport has also provided the club with full use of land at the airport, near the picturesque Paisley Moss.
Tony said: “I launched the club last year with two members and we’re now up to 15. The club has proved really popular and to continue to grow we had to invest in some new equipment.
“The airport has really pulled out all the stops in their generosity to the club. Not only have they allowed the club free use of the land, which is in the perfect environment for dog training, they have donated a storage container for the dog agility equipment and £2,500 to help get the club started.”
John McConnell, Head of Commercial at Glasgow Airport, said: “We are only too happy to offer support to the Phoenix Dog Agility Club. I spent some time with Tony and the team and they do a fantastic job training the dogs. I wish the club every success for the future.”
Tony added: “Dog agility not only keeps you fit it improves the bond between dog and owner. It is a sport suitable for most breeds of dogs and we would be delighted to hear from anyone interested in joining the club.”
Following on from my shhhh post - Pat was almost correct!
In my street there are three of us who train our dogs at agility, and of course we chat to all the other dog walkers while we are out and about.
Lots of people have expressed interest in teaching their dogs agility and we have given them the contact details of the clubs and classes in the area - but people have been coming back to us and saying the classes are all full.
So we decided to start our own dog agility training club The Phoenix Flyers for Paisley, Renfrewshire and the surrounding area
The support we have got from this venture has been amazing. We have already got and refurbished a set of agility equipment, a local business has given us access to a secure field to train on and a unit to store the equipment and another local business has offered to cut the grass and keep the field in tip top condition
and we have actually started getting interest from the website even tho I havent even launched it properly yet
Here is our first oudoor show of the year - 6 runs at Dundee
We had a fantastic weekend, lovely sunshine and well run rings ment we got the afternoon off playing in the sea.
Ben usualy gets about 75% clear rounds at shows but this weekend we didnt get a single clear!!
Sloppy handling from me and we need a lot more work on the weaves!! But looking back he didnt do too bad
The second agility run (4th run) the sun was quite low and the seesaw was right into the sun. He has never jumped off one before but lots of the dogs were doing it that run, I guess the light might have made it look strange - I will have to bear that in mind if it happens again.
The next step for most trainers to a more hands off type of training is to lure the dog into the behaviour using some food or a toy.
Examples of this
Sit
Hold a treat in front of the dogs nose then slowly raise it above his head. As the dogs head goes up its bum should go down
Down
Take the treat from the dogs nose slowly down between the dogs paws then sweeping forwards along the floor
Recall
Hold treat or ball out for the dog to see.
This methods is fantastic to motivate the dog, it knows what it is going to get if it does the right thing.
Some people dont like the idea of bribing their dog to work, but sometimes we need a little boost to know what the point is
When you are at a job interview do you ask what the pay is going to be or do you just do the job in the hope the pay will be worth it??
The problems with this methods can be
The dog dosent work if he dosent see the food - this is usually a trainer error, if you ONLY give the dog a treat when you lure him and then dont ever give a treat when you dont lure him then they learn pretty quick there is no point unless you have a treat
The video above explains how to prevent that happening, getting the behaviour then quickly fading out having the lure in your hand, then fading out the hand signal.
If it is already a problem then the best thing to do is for a short while always have treats on you, then if your dog does something amazing for you you can immediately whip out a fantastic reward (no point running to the kitchen - he needs to have the reward right away) then he learns that there is always a chance of a treat and so he tries harder to get that magical treat.
People also complain that the dog learns to look to you too much with this method. This does not have to be the case. With Ben teaching the weaves I lured him, but I noticed at the end of the weave he was always looking to me for his treat
Easily sorted. As he passed the last pole I chuck the treat, then after a short while I hold back with the treat, he naturally drives ahead out of the weave looking for his treat, and I chuck it. He learns to run ahead coming out of the weave
Simples :D
This is a foundation method many trainers use, often along with other methods. It is pretty fast, it makes sense to both the human and the dog, and it makes for a happy focused dog who enjoys training times.
I love training my dogs, I think training ANYTHING is great for your dogs.
Everything we ask our dogs to do is a trick to them, sitting, coming when called, doing an agility round or dancing on their back legs - its ALL tricks to them.
There are several different ways we can train our dogs tricks
1. Compulsive/manipulation
2. Luring
3. Targeting
4. Capturing
5. Shaping
Over the next few days I would like to spend a little time going into all the methods, looking at what they mean for us and for our dogs, the pros and cons of each method and how we can combine the methods to create quite complex tricks that not only stimulate our dogs but also give our brains a workout as we have to try and out-think our dogs.
If you have any videos of you training your dogs or any methods you would like to share please post them here and I might include some in future posts.
Please remember if you would like to vote for this blog as the top dog blog (and I would love it if you would) you need to sign up for the newsletter at http://www.trainpetdog.com/ and in a couple of days they will ask you to vote for your top dog blog. There will be prizes not only for me but for you lot too if this blog does well in the contest
Over the past few years I have been buying lots of dog training books, from the really great to the amazingly rubbish.
This is my fave book out of the lot. I initially got it to help with Mias reactivity, and it has helped lots (and is keeping on helping)
But the more I read it the more I realised it helps with ALL dogs.
The programme is great for Mia, reactive, easily distracted, v smart, high energy with issues with other dogs.
It has taught me great ways to build focus in her using games and behavioural tools, how to deal with her triggers, to realise when she was about to go off on one and how to improve that.
But it has also helped lots with Ben, ideas on how to increase his focus and excitement for working, how rate of reward can really build value in a trick, position or command to make him enjoy doing it more, to understand more his level of arousal so I know whether he needs geed up a bit or calmed down.
Watching other dogs in classes, agility shows and out about in the street I can see how other dogs would benefit from a little Control Unleashed.
I have enjoyed reading and using it so much that I have even sourced a hall to hopefully run a kind of informal class and allow me to work Mia with more distractions.
If you have a great dog but want to understand them more get this book!
If you have a dog with a few issues get this book
If you have a dog with lots of issued get this book - but also contact a behaviourist
If you are thinking of doing agility or are doing agility but could do better GET THIS BOOK!